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Your front door is most likely to be made of wood, PVCu or metal (usually
aluminium). The construction of PVCu doors makes it difficult to install
additional locks and other security fittings at a later date. It is
important to seek advice from the installer or manufacturer if you
require additional security. If you try to fit locks, door chains,
or viewers yourself, you could cause irreparable damage and invalidate
your guarantee. Your door should be secure if installed to the manufacturer's
specifications including being fitted with a good quality multi-point
locking system. If you have any doubts about the strength or solidity
of your door or frame, you should ask an expert for advice.
Metal doors are generally solidly built and can be fitted with
suitable locks and security fittings, but you should consult the
installer or a qualified locksmith before making any modifications.
Most doors are made of wood, and anyone with DIY experience should
be able to make improvements.
If your home has a porch with an inner and outer door, both doors
must be made secure. If intruders get through the outer door of
your porch they could attack the inner door without being seen or
heard.
Think about fitting a strong barrel (tower) bolt inside your front
door (at the bottom). When you are home at night you can use it
instead of the mortice lock so that you can get out quickly in an
emergency.
Flats/Apartments
If the front door is less than 4.5 meters (15') above ground level,
security advice is the same as for ground floor front doors. If
the front door is higher than this (for example, most flats on the
second floor or above), in the interests of fire and safety the
front or final exit door should not be fitted with a lock that needs
a key to open from the inside. For example, you should not use standard
mortice deadlocks if they can be operated from inside. You should
fit locks that comply with British Standard BS 5588: these allow
you to release the lock with a single action (turning the handle
or thumb turn) to leave the flat.
Security measures for wooden front doors
| 1. |
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Doors should be solid timber (not hollow)
a minimum of 44 mm (1 ¾") thick, supported by three
100mm (4") hinges. The frame to be of sound timber, securely
bolted or screws to the walls every 600mm (23") around
the whole frame. |
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| 2. |
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Fit a good automatic dead-latch cylinder lock (rim lock) about
a third of the way down, avoiding joints in the timber. |
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| 3. |
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Fit a good 5-lever mortice deadlock with boxed staple (conforming
to British Standard BS3621) about a third of the way up. |
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| 4. |
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Strengthen the doorframe by fitting a 'London bar' to support
the locking points and a 'Birmingham bar' to reinforce the hinges.
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| 5. |
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If your front door opens outwards, fit hinge bolts at the
hinge edge approximately 150 mm (6") below the top hinge
and 150 mm (6") above the bottom hinge. |
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| 6. |
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Recessed or decorative panels should be a minimum of 9 mm
(1/3") thick to resist attack. |
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| 7. |
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Fit metal plates on both sides of the door to reinforce the
area around the mortice lock. This will increase the door's
resistance to forced entry. |
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| 8. |
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Fit any glass panels within or to the side of the laminated
glass. You can strengthen existing glass by adding security
film to the inside face. Fit glass from the inside to guard
against putty or beading being removed. If this is not possible,
use glazing mastic, which is stronger than putty. You could
also fit a decorative pattern metal grille on the inside face
of glazed panels. |
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| 9. |
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Fit a door viewer and door chain to limiter and always use
them before opening the door to callers (see Bogus callers). |
NOTE: Check your home contents insurance policy.
These recommendations are a minimum requirement for insurance and
your company may require more security.
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